Subtraction Cutting

'Designing with patterns

  rather than 

 creating patterns for designs'

It enables the creation of a garment using minimal fabric and technicality as its outcome revolves on the space around the pattern and creating a channel for the body. The outcome is completely sporadic as the shape of the garment changes each time this process is used - Having used it myself -and created a miniature dress from it- this is something I like about it; it's creative, yet simple and can be done with ease.

The Process:
What's needed-

• Patterns: Front and back, lining and 4 x circles.
• Two sheets of fabric - 120cm by 270cm (full size)
  
  Start:
• Lay fabrics on top of each other and then sew together to create an open case - sew a long 3 edges with 1cm seam allowance.
• Press.
• Lay front and back patterns on to fabric (any position possible)pin down and chalk around.
• Draw a simple line connecting the front and back together; Creating a weird shape of negative space.
• Through the top layer only, cut out the negative space..
• Join the underarms together, 1cm seam allowance.

You need to make a tunnel to feed the garment through to give it its shape:
• 2 circles (same measurement as your hip circumference) per tunnel.
•  Place the circles anywhere (as long as the 2 are in line) and draw and cut around the first layer.
• Place circle edge on to the opposite circle's edge and stitch together.
• Attach the lining to the top of the dress, neck and arm holes. 
• Stitch the straps together at the top by turning the dress inside out.
• Turn the dress back through and attach the lining to the dress via the shoulders.
  Finished.

Part 1-

Part 2-

Finished Outcome-

I like the effect this technique has on the garment shape and form. The sporadic points and drapes create lines and angles which which would create interesting silhouettes; distorting the body. This has inspired me and is something I would like like to work with further to influence my designs and develop my concepts.