Friday, 26 November 2010

Innovation Practice

The final construction of the piece via Subtraction cutting using 2 materials; 1 light grey/beige lycra, and 1 a darker shade of grey in lightweight cotton.

-Cut the patterns out with 1cm seam allowance (done in the previous lesson prior to making).
-The front piece was altered from the standard bodice block to change the neck line. Instead of a normal rounded neck , we introduced a boat neckline.
-The Back was altered from the standard back block, and was made in to a low- cut piece, in conjunction with thinning the straps for it too.
To make sure the back holds its form we added darts from the underarm and closed them.
-4 Circles were cut out, using the measurements of our hips - they had to be wide enough for the tunnels to fit over the body in order for the whole dress to fit.

-Lining measured accordingly, to fit in with the bodices.




Pin the two sheets of fabric together - 2.6 m long to hold them steady as the lycra is difficult to work with and slips around. Place the bodice patterns on top and draw your chosen shape for the negative space.


-Cut out-


Place the circles on the fabric after sewing the casing (as listed in the below description of how to subtraction cut) and cut out only through the top layer of fabric.



Sew the circles together (as listed below) and then once the rings have been created work on the shoulders and turn inside out.



This is how garment looked on the mannequin once it had been sewn together.
Not the most flattering of shapes as the jersey just skims over the hips, widening the shape but it looks a lot better on an actual person as it hugs the figure, achieving the desired, body-con affect.


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